Of all the places I’ve visited on my travels around the gem and jewelry world, nowhere is the cult of luxury as palpable as it is in Geneva. The Swiss city is home to the United Nations, international banks and institutions of diplomacy and international cooperation, but to walk along the shores of Lake Léman, particularly at night when the neon signs affixed to the top of every building in town blaze with names such as Piaget and Patek Philippe, is to behold a place in thrall with luxury. And not just any luxury. A hub for the world’s finest stone-setters and watchmakers, Geneva is a city of jewels.
I was reminded of this last week, when I attended the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, or SIHH, an invitation-only event ruled by a coterie of 17 elite brands, most of them owned by the Richemont luxury group (think Cartier, IWC, Panerai). As a repeat visitor, I knew what to expect: a plush exhibition space of 24,000 square meters notable for its gourmet meal service and urbane ambience, buzzing with cigarette smoke and a low-key Babelian hum.
This year, however, things had changed—no cigarettes allowed, for starters. Far more significant was the show’s new timing. Typically held in early spring, following the start of Baselworld, SIHH had been moved to its new slot in mid-January due to a scheduling conflict at the Geneva Palexpo venue. I imagine organizers hadn’t planned on such a drastic change coinciding with a global economic crisis, but what can you do?
Personally, I didn’t mind the excuse to travel. I’ve got a few good friends who live in Switzerland and the new dates afforded me an opportunity to see them. They also gave me the chance to indulge my love of fondue, raclette and chocolate—Switzerland’s greatest exports, as far as I’m concerned.
But back to the jewels; in Geneva, they’re inescapable. I spent my final day in town hanging out with my friend, designer Sandra Müller. Born in Chile and schooled in Switzerland, she’s now a dyed-in-the-wool Californian who was visiting from LA in order to discuss a potential collaboration with Shahpour Jahan, the creative director of Jahan, a seventh-generation jewelry business with a flagship boutique located on Geneva’s famed avenue of luxury, Rue du Rhône.
We sat in Shahpour’s office overlooking the lake for an entire afternoon, as I modeled one necklace after another, each crazier, more gem-encrusted than the next. Jahan’s clients are the royals of Saudi Arabia, where weddings are incomplete without head-to-toe bling for every female guest, from the eldest generation on down, so you can only imagine the opulence.
“A person has a doctor, a lawyer,” Shahpour said, as he placed a floral collar of diamond and sapphire roses around my neck, “and we consider ourselves an advisor—someone to improve their jewelry capital.”
As I gazed out the window, to the city by the lake, surrounded by signs advertising more luxury brands—Bédat, de Grisogono—all I could think was, how fitting.